Whats the scoop on Cetaphil

Ok Kids! Let's get down to brass tacks, shall we? Today I want to talk about every Dermatologists favorite cleanser: Cetaphil. This is not going to be pretty, so if you aren't interested in hearing the truth, go ahead and leave now, I won't blame you one bit! I'm not kidding when I say I cringe EVERY TIME someone tells me that their derm recommended they use this sham of a cleanser. It's touted as being gentle on the skin, but is it really? We are going to break this down one ingredient at a time.

*DISCLAIMER*
I feel that it is important to stress that I AM NOT TRYING TO ATTACK people who use Cetaphil, not at all! My goal is just to educate and this is something I feel VERY strongly about. You don't know what you don't know until you are given insight. So, read on to feel more confident in making educated decisions!

As an Esthetician, I am an expert on the skin. That's not to say I know EVERYTHING, no one esthi does (and neither does a single derm..) BUT I've spent countless hours obsessing over everything skin care! I study ingredients like a fiend. I'm not trying to sound cocky, but this is one thing I'm not modest about, I know my shit when it comes to skin. And if I don't, you can bet your cheeks that I'll do my damnedest to find the answer. However, all my credentials, the countless hours spent reading and experimenting, pale in comparison to a medical degree. No, I didn't spend 8+ years in school to become an MD. BUT, dermatologists don't focus on ingredients like we esthies do. They are EXPERTS at diagnosing diseases and cancers, but one thing most derms don't do is look into SKIN CARE. It's not their fault, they do what they are taught. The medical field is a completely different mindset. "Lets hit this problem with everything we've got." But, that's not always the most effective method when it comes to treating the skin and everyday skin concerns. Derms are doctors, and doctors prescribe. I am not trying to criticize dermatologists, I'm simply trying to show the different mindsets that derms have from esthies. It's simply a difference in the way we are educated. More and more dermatologists are hiring estheticians to help bridge the gap between their specialties and skin care, so not all derms think this way. I just wanted to shed a little light on the differences between estheticians and dermatologists. Now that we've got that out of the way, read on!

Here's why derms love Cetaphil so much: It's marketed as a gentle cleanser that won't react with most medications. The second part of that statement is mostly true, it won't cause a reaction with most medications. Most of the prescription creams and gels are very aggressive on the skin, and therefore the skin needs extra care when using them. Cetaphil has no active ingredients, which means that it won't affect your medications, but it also won't do anything good for your skin. A good cleanser should be loaded with active ingredients, like botanicals that soothe the skin, or antioxidants that protect from free-radical damage. A really good cleanser is going to have gentle acids, like lactic acid, that gently help to exfoliate and brighten the skin without stripping it of its barrier function.

Let's break down Cetaphil's ingredients:
Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Stearyl Alcohol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben.
This list was copied and pasted directly from Cetaphil's website. They are the ingredients for the Gentle Skin Cleanser. 
Water: Water is the basis of most skincare products, even professional lines. If humans had an ingredients label, water would be the first on the list. 
Cetyl Alcohol: Cetyl alcohol is used as a thickening agent and emulsifier. It helps to bind other ingredients together and prevents separation. It has been known to cause irritation to the skin, eyes, and lungs (when atomized).
Propylene Glycol: Propylene glycol is often used in the production of polyester resins. In skin care and personal care products, the main function is as a humectant. It basically forms a waxy layer on the skin, preventing loss of water. 
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is a surfactant. It is used as a foaming agent, to "cleanse" the skin. It actually is very drying to the skin, which is what gives that "clean" feeling. It causes irritation to the skin, eyes, and lungs, and is a possible carcinogen.
Stearyl Alcohol: Stearyl alcohol is an emulsion stabilizer and foaming agent. It is irritating to the skin, eyes, and lungs.
Methylparaben: Methylparaben is a preservative. It is known to cause endocrine disruption and biochemical changes. It is a known carcinogen.
Propylparaben: Propylparaben is another preservative. It can cause endocrine disruption. Carcinogen.
Butylparaben: Butylparaben is, you guessed it, another preservative that is known to cause endocrine disruption. Carcinogen.

One of the claims about Cetaphil that is supposed to make it "so good for you" is that it has few ingredients. Out of the eight ingredients, three of them are parabens, two are known irritants, and half of them may cause cancer.

There is not a single beneficial ingredient! No antioxidants to protect against free-radicals, no essential oils or botanical extracts. There is absolutely nothing in this product that does anything good for the skin.

There are absolutely plenty of professional lines that have gentle cleansers that actually contain skin-supporting ingredients. PCA has their Creamy Cleanser, Skin Script has Pomagranite Antioxidant Cleanser, Hale and Hush have Quiet Wash, and GlymedPlus has Gentle Facial Wash, Vitamin C Cleanser, and Peptide Cleanser. Find an esthetician near you and have them recommend their favorite gentle cleaner.

By no means am I trying to make you feel bad if you use Cetaphil. You don't know what you don't know. This post is intended to help inform consumers and allow people to make educated decisions.
I hope that you found this article helpful. If you have any questions or if you have a product that you'd like me to break down, go ahead and comment down below!

Love Ya!

What to expect when coming in for a treatment

Hey lovelies!

Today I want to talk about something that's been on my mind a lot lately. I've had a lot of new guests come in for treatments, and they all had one thing in common; they were a little overwhelmed.

So, you want to come in for a treatment, but you don't know where to start. Spa menus can be a bit confusing. There are a lot of different options, and you want to make sure you choose the best one for your skin. I have fantastic news for you; it doesn't have to be so complicated! Those options are there, yes, but you don't have to feel so pressured to choose "the best one."

Estheticians don't really expect you to know exactly what you need, especially if this is your first time coming to see us. It's our job to know what each service entails and what it's good for, not yours. Your job is to come in, relax, and let us do the work! I ask all my first time clients a variation of this question: "Why did you choose _________ today?" Whether it be, microderm, dermaplaning or a "basic" custom facial, I want to know why you chose the one you did. What concerns do you have? What do you want to change about your skin? What do you love about your skin? The more I know about your "why," will help me decide on what will be best for you and your skin. Again, it's not your job to know which treatment will be the one you need, rest assured that you will leave having received exactly what your skin needs!

Now that we've alleviated some of your worries, what should you book? I recommend, if it's your very first time, or just your first time at a new spa, go with the "basic" facial. Where I work, at Grove Spa, that would be our Custom PCA Facial. Just because I'm calling this one our "basic" facial, doesn't mean it won't give you results. Oh, no! This facial has "custom" in its name for a reason! We customize each step of the facial to suit your specific skin type and needs! After your skin is cleansed of all makeup, we will take a look at it under the mag lamp, or Maggie Lamp, as one of my "esthi idols" calls it! We will look for certain characteristics in your skin. Are you dry? Oily? Combination? Could you have rosacea? All of these factors will determine how we treat your skin, and what products we will use. I don't expect you to have an answer to these questions, truly. If you have an idea, of course I want you to tell me your thoughts on your skin, but don't stress over whether you know if you have this or that... Seriously, if you're not sure, no worries! We'll figure it out together! The most important thing is that you are here! You took this massive step towards the skin of your dreams!

Once you come in and we've talked about your wants, needs and skin type, we will select the treatment products that will best deliver the results you hope for. One thing that I think is important to mention is what you should expect when it comes to the "results." I know I've been saying that word through out this post, but I want to make sure we are on the same page. When you get a facial, you WILL notice some immediate results. You'll see and feel an improvement in the over all texture of your skin. However, if you have a lot of texture from scarring, that will take time to start to see improvement, but your skin will feel softer and smoother to the touch because we are getting rid of several layers of dead skin, which can leave even the smoothest skins feeling rough and dull. Your skin will also be super hydrated after your facial! Even the most oily of skin types need hydration, especially after a deep cleansing facial, which can leave the skin slightly dehydrated.

If you've got your heart set on getting something more aggressive, like a microderm or chemical peel, my best advice would be to come in and get a facial first. We can discuss your concerns and needs and come up with a treatment plan to target those issues. I never recommend someone get a microderm or a peel for their first treatment. Those treatments are aggressive and can cause serious damage if the skin is not properly conditioned. I prefer to do at least one or two facials to get a feel for your skin and determine what the best course of action would be. It's important to note that no matter which treatment you get, it's never a "one and done" quick fix. Even peels take time. It could take up to six or more peels or microderms to start seeing the results you are hoping for. Many guests will book these treatments in the hopes that they will fix all their problems, when a Custom Facial can be just as effective, and less taxing to the skin. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE chemical peels! They are truly one of my favorite things! But, even as much as I love them, I realize that not everyone needs them. If you really want a peel or a microderm, come in and we can talk it over. This doesn't mean you can't get one, but a good esthetician will want to be sure you can handle it.

A facial consists of cleansing, exfoliating, examining, extracting (as needed), a mask, serums, moisturizer and SPF. Sometimes the order may very, there may be multiple cleanses, no extractions and in some cases even, no exfoliation. It just depends on what your skin needs. Just know that you are getting the treatment you need, even if it feels like a step may have been omitted, there was most likely a reason. I have had people complain in the past because I skipped a step, but the truth is, if it's not necessary, I'm not going to do it. If you have really dry skin and don't have anything that needs extracting, I won't do that step. Instead, I'm going to use that time to let the hydrating mask sit on your skin and give you an extra long shoulder massage or use extra serums. Please don't feel like I just didn't want to do it, or that I forgot, because I didn't. Facials are my favorite thing to do, and I want to make sure that everyone gets precisely what their skin needs.

To try to make a long story short, I know that it can sometimes be difficult to trust a stranger with your skin. This post is intended to help to alleviate some of that anxiety, and to let you know that I'm going to do everything that I can to make your experience one of a kind (and I'm sure my Esthi sisters and brothers will do the same)! There's a facial for every skin, and I'm so happy that you have decided to take this step towards having your dream skin!! There's truly no better feeling than helping someone feel beautiful!

I hope you found this post entertaining, helpful or that you learned something! Please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know what you thought! If you are in Springfield, MO or close and you want to book a facial with me, you can find me at Grove Spa! I look forward to seeing you!

Your Esthetician,

The truth about Retinol

Hey babes!

Lets take a moment to look at one of the most popular ingredients in skin care; Retinol.

What it is

Retinol is a form of Vitamin A. Vitamin A is used by the body to form strong bones and build a healthy immune system. It is also used as a top ingredient in anti-aging products. Most of the Vitamin A you need comes from the food you eat. You’ll find Vitamin A in foods such as salmon, blue fin tuna, goat cheese, cheddar cheese, kale, spinach, sweet potatoes, watermelon, cantaloupe, and mangoes. However, even if you eat a ton of kale and carrots, (and if we’re being honest cheese….) you’re still not getting enough for it to make it all the way to your skin. Your skin is the last stop on the nutrient train.

There are several varieties of Vitamin A, called Retinoids, on the market. Knowing which one you’re using is almost as important as actually using one. There’s retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is the active form of Vitamin A, it is what is produced when the skin metabolizes retinoids. It goes deep into the skin and lightens pigment and smooths fine lines. Retinol tends to be the most common form used in modern cosmetics, as it is the most stable, therefore delivering the highest percentage of retinoic acid to the skin. But, it’s also important to note that not all products containing retinol are created equal, and I’ll talk more about that further down the post, so be sure to keep reading!

Why You Need It

Retinol is one of the most effective ingredients to fight common signs of ageing. Hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, dull, blotchy complexion and even acne are all some of the conditions that retinol helps to fight. As we get older, our skin doesn’t slough off as quickly or as easily as it once did. You know the expression “soft as a baby’s bottom?” there’s a reason we don’t say “soft as a 30-something’s bottom…” Babies and children get a new set of skin approximately every 14 days, teenagers 21-28 days, 20’s-40’s every 28-42, and 50+ every 42-84 days. It’s the skins natural cell turnover rate that helps to keep our texture even and smooth. Once that starts slowing down, you start noticing more and more signs of aging. This is why exfoliation is so important. Unfortunately, manual exfoliation isn’t enough as it doesn’t go deep enough through the layers of the epidermis and dermis.

What You Need To Know

As I mentioned above, not all products containing retinol are created equally. There are tons of retinoids on the market, with more and more popping up at the corner drug store at affordable price points. But, are they effective, or even safe? Certain brands are boasting day and night creams containing retinol, it’s literally in everything. Unfortunately, those products don’t come with education on how to best use them to get the maximum benefit. Most of them don’t contain a high enough percentage to have any effect what-so-ever, and those that do run the risk of causing some real damage.

Retinol at its core is an exfoliant. Exfoliation on it’s own is not necessarily dangerous, but over use can be. I often will have people come in with raw, irritated skin, due to over exfoliation or over use of retinols and other chemical exfoliators. We all know the saying “everything in moderation.” That’s not just an excuse to have the occasional ice cream, it’s also a good rule to live by with your skin, as well. Too much exfoliation can strip the skin of it’s natural protective properties, called Barrier Function. This barrier helps to keep the skin protected by keeping it lubricated and preventing loss of natural moisture; called Transepidermal Water Loss, TEWL for short. This can trick people into thinking that they are improving their skin, as the skin appears tight and firm, when it’s actually starving. From a distance it looks like your efforts are paying off, but you’re doing more harm in the long run. Not only does over exfoliation cause your natural moisture to evaporate, it also allows more debris and toxins to enter the body through the skin. This is why it is so important to use products that are designed for your unique skin type and concerns, rather than buying something off the shelf because it promises younger looking skin.

Prescription strength retinoids are not exempt from this, either. I’ve seen many a face that has been abused by Tretinoin or RetinA. The retinoids in these products are less stable, causing less retinoic acid to be absorbed by the skin. This means that dermatologists will prescribe higher percentages and recommend daily use. Short term use of these products isn’t as detrimental, however, prolonged exposure will result in that same, raw, angry looking skin as a result of TEWL

So, what’s a girl to do!? You’ve got pigmentation and lost elasticity from the days when it was cool to lay out in the sun or bake in a tanning bed or you’re fighting post-partum acne and that last little bit of melasma that just won’t die. And now I seem to be telling you that your last resort is going to fry your face…. All hope is NOT lost! Find an Esthetician in your area that you can work with. They will recommend a product that they use on their own skin, and that can be trusted not to damage the skin, while still delivering the results you are dreaming of. Newer formulations of retinoids are breaking through old standards and delivering beautiful results in ways that are safer for the skin! For example, PCA uses a state of the art formula called Omnisome Delivery System. This basically encapsulates the retinol in a protective sphere. These spheres slowly dissolve over the course of 10 hours, allowing more retinol to be converted into retinoic acid, and therefore delivered deeper into the skin, where all the issues live. This is the brand of retinol that we retail where I work. We will work with you and educate you on the best retinol to use for your specific concerns, and how often you should be applying it for optimal results.

By working with an Esthetician who has your best interests at heart, you can make sure that you are not only using the best retinol for your skin, but an entire skincare routine designed just for you will ensure that your skin is supported during whatever journey you’re traveling. Don’t try to navigate the road to good skin alone, you’ll get there so much faster and with less pain if you have a copilot traveling beside you! 

Sanitation In The Spa/Salon

Hey Beauties!

I wanted to talk about something that has been bothering me a lot lately, and that is proper sanitation in the spa/salon environment.

If I had a dollar for every time I was asked, "why are you wearing gloves," or, "why do you get a new stick every time," I'd have lots of dollars... This makes me wonder why do these people feel the need to ask me this? And I'm worried that it is because proper sanitation in the spa doesn't seem to be the norm any more, at least not the spas that are making "educational videos." There is even a well known esthetician, who owns a popular brand of wax, who rarely follows proper sanitation in her educational videos....

Now I'll admit, double dipping is "legal" in some states, but I am of the opinion, just because you can, doesn't mean you should... I'ts common sense to me to NOT double dip. Think about it. You are ripping the hairs out of your client's skin, which opens the follicle and causes a histamine reaction which can and does release bodily fluids to the surface of the skin. In addition, it is perfectly normal and common for some bleeding to occur. So now your client has bodily fluids (including blood) on the surface of their skin. Lets say HYPOTHETICALLY they have HIV and did not disclose that to you, it's their right not to say anything and illegal for you to ask. When you apply your next strip of wax to the skin, you are probably going to overlap a little bit and get some of their bodily fluids on your applicator, which you then put back in the pot of clean wax. Now that wax has HIV, which you will pass on to every client you wax out of that pot..

I am and always have been of the opinion that you NEVER know whether someone could be contagious or not. And though this may seem harsh, you should just assume that everyone is. In the states there are a set of guidelines called Universal Precautions. These are the rules that medical facilities have to follow to make sure that all patients and staff are protected from blood born pathogens. I choose to follow these guidelines myself. I NEVER wax without gloves, not even a quick brow or lip wax, I glove up for extractions and dispose of all lancets, bloody materials and dermaplane blades in a sharps container. I want to make sure that I'm doing everything I can to keep every single one of my clients and myself safe.

Does your esthetician wear gloves when they wax you? If not, I recommend finding someone new, and go ahead and tell them why you're breaking up with them...

Why Did I Start A Blog?

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Greetings Earthlings! 

*This post is going to be more of a diary style...*

So I've been evaluating some things lately... I don't want to get too deep, but I'm starting to question myself a little.. My career hasn't gone how I had planed or hoped it would, and that has affected my confidence a little... So lately I've been upset with myself for not blogging more, but at the same time, I haven't been very inspired.. I asked myself some hard questions. "What does it take to be inspired?" "What was the reason you decided to blog in the first place?" Geez, Ashley, You don't beat around the bush do you?

I wanted to start a blog so that I could have a platform to be able to talk about the things that I'm passionate about.

I don’t have too many friends in real life. Not because I don’t want them, but I have a hard time connecting with people. Part of my problem is insecurity, and equal parts anxiety and depression.. Yep.. That lovely cocktail of worrying, over-thinking everything, and a debilitating lack of desire to get out of my comfort-zone.

So, like many before me, I thought a blog would be a good way to get my self out of my comfort zone and make some friends who have similar interests without necessarily having to put on pants... 

Now, thats not to say that I don't have any friends, but the friends I do have don't all share or understand my passion for makeup. Not that they are unsupportive, I just feel like when I'm talking about makeup they hear gibberish. My poor husband knows far more than I think he would prefer to know... So, instead of boring my friends and family, I thought of this blog as a way to vent about crappy products, gush about the good ones and start discussions on topics that make me and my readers giddy! 

I'm hoping that through this blog I'll build some friendships with people who think like I do and share my interests. I also think I have a unique perspective on makeup. I feel like you either LOVE "natural, everyday" makeup or "full-on glam." I think there is a time and place for both styles of makeup and both take talent. 

As far as I am concerned, this is a safe space. I don't care what religion you are, what your gender identity is, what your sex life is like, how much (or little) you weigh or what color your skin is. We all have something in common, and if you are reading this, I'm assuming its makeup. So lets use that common ground (did I just miss an opportunity for a foundation pun?) to form relationships with people who live different lives than ourselves!

Anyway...  That's why I wanted to start a blog. I also have a YouTube channel, so if you want to check that out I'll leave it linked here.

Thanks for stopping by!
If someone hasn't already told you yet today, you are BEAUTIFUL!

The Obligatory New Years Post

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Greetings Earthlings!!

So I know I'm a week late on this subject, I wasn't going to write about it at all, but I decided it would be a good idea, since I am having a little bit of a hard time coming up with topics right now.

New Years Resolutions are beaten to death on the blogging-/vlogging-sphere. #NewYearNewMe amiright? Kudos to you if you set resolutions and stick to them, because I never seem to be able to. That's why, this year, I'm not making any resolutions. I do have personal goals and a vision of where I'd like to be at the end of the year, though.

Goal #1; I'd like to be more healthy. There is no set number of pounds or inches I want to lose, because I never meet the goal and end up getting depressed and causing myself to gain more weight... So, instead of resolving to diet and lose weight, I'm setting a goal that I'll make smarter choices (no more pop, less sugar, less alcohol, etc) but instead of depriving myself and setting myself up for failure, I'm cutting each vice out, one at a time. First to go is pop. Then when I feel like I'm not missing it anymore, I'll cut something else. I'm also going to find a physician to make sure my hormones are in check.

Goal #2 is to start blogging more regularly. I'd really love to set a regular schedule for blogging, I just have a hard time writing when I'm not inspired to... Inspiration comes in bursts for me, and if I force something it doesn't feel genuine or honest.

And goal #3 is to learn everything I can learn about my career. I am a Licensed Esthetician, but I feel like I'm really lacking the knowledge I should have by now. I'd also like to be able to put myself out there and land my dream job, grow my client base and not let my insecurities hold me back..

I know the're not much difference between yearly goals and resolutions, but I feel like saying "goals" alleviates much of the pressure and stress, especially when it comes to my personality and tendencies,

Did you set resolutions or are you more goal-oriented? What are some topics you'd like to know my thoughts on?

If someone hasn't told you already, you are gorgeous!

Neon New Years Eve Makeup

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So the last video I uploaded was a very tame New Years makeup. This time I'm pulling out all the stops and going bold for the holiday! Hope you love it as much as I do!!! Let me know if you'd like to see more bright and fun looks like this!!