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Saturday, March 9, 2019

Whats the scoop on Cetaphil




Ok Kids! Let's get down to brass tacks, shall we? Today I want to talk about every Dermatologists favorite cleanser: Cetaphil. This is not going to be pretty, so if you aren't interested in hearing the truth, go ahead and leave now, I won't blame you one bit! I'm not kidding when I say I cringe EVERY TIME someone tells me that their derm recommended they use this sham of a cleanser. It's touted as being gentle on the skin, but is it really? We are going to break this down one ingredient at a time.

*DISCLAIMER*
I feel that it is important to stress that I AM NOT TRYING TO ATTACK people who use Cetaphil, not at all! My goal is just to educate and this is something I feel VERY strongly about. You don't know what you don't know until you are given insight. So, read on to feel more confident in making educated decisions!

As an Esthetician, I am an expert on the skin. That's not to say I know EVERYTHING, no one esthi does (and neither does a single derm..) BUT I've spent countless hours obsessing over everything skin care! I study ingredients like a fiend. I'm not trying to sound cocky, but this is one thing I'm not modest about, I know my shit when it comes to skin. And if I don't, you can bet your cheeks that I'll do my damnedest to find the answer. However, all my credentials, the countless hours spent reading and experimenting, pale in comparison to a medical degree. No, I didn't spend 8+ years in school to become an MD. BUT, dermatologists don't focus on ingredients like we esthies do. They are EXPERTS at diagnosing diseases and cancers, but one thing most derms don't do is look into SKIN CARE. It's not their fault, they do what they are taught. The medical field is a completely different mindset. "Lets hit this problem with everything we've got." But, that's not always the most effective method when it comes to treating the skin and everyday skin concerns. Derms are doctors, and doctors prescribe. I am not trying to criticize dermatologists, I'm simply trying to show the different mindsets that derms have from esthies. It's simply a difference in the way we are educated. More and more dermatologists are hiring estheticians to help bridge the gap between their specialties and skin care, so not all derms think this way. I just wanted to shed a little light on the differences between estheticians and dermatologists. Now that we've got that out of the way, read on!

Here's why derms love Cetaphil so much: It's marketed as a gentle cleanser that won't react with most medications. The second part of that statement is mostly true, it won't cause a reaction with most medications. Most of the prescription creams and gels are very aggressive on the skin, and therefore the skin needs extra care when using them. Cetaphil has no active ingredients, which means that it won't affect your medications, but it also won't do anything good for your skin. A good cleanser should be loaded with active ingredients, like botanicals that soothe the skin, or antioxidants that protect from free-radical damage. A really good cleanser is going to have gentle acids, like lactic acid, that gently help to exfoliate and brighten the skin without stripping it of its barrier function.

Let's break down Cetaphil's ingredients:
Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Stearyl Alcohol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben.
This list was copied and pasted directly from Cetaphil's website. They are the ingredients for the Gentle Skin Cleanser. 
Water: Water is the basis of most skincare products, even professional lines. If humans had an ingredients label, water would be the first on the list. 
Cetyl Alcohol: Cetyl alcohol is used as a thickening agent and emulsifier. It helps to bind other ingredients together and prevents separation. It has been known to cause irritation to the skin, eyes, and lungs (when atomized).
Propylene Glycol: Propylene glycol is often used in the production of polyester resins. In skin care and personal care products, the main function is as a humectant. It basically forms a waxy layer on the skin, preventing loss of water. 
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is a surfactant. It is used as a foaming agent, to "cleanse" the skin. It actually is very drying to the skin, which is what gives that "clean" feeling. It causes irritation to the skin, eyes, and lungs, and is a possible carcinogen.
Stearyl Alcohol: Stearyl alcohol is an emulsion stabilizer and foaming agent. It is irritating to the skin, eyes, and lungs.
Methylparaben: Methylparaben is a preservative. It is known to cause endocrine disruption and biochemical changes. It is a known carcinogen.
Propylparaben: Propylparaben is another preservative. It can cause endocrine disruption. Carcinogen.
Butylparaben: Butylparaben is, you guessed it, another preservative that is known to cause endocrine disruption. Carcinogen.

One of the claims about Cetaphil that is supposed to make it "so good for you" is that it has few ingredients. Out of the eight ingredients, three of them are parabens, two are known irritants, and half of them may cause cancer.

There is not a single beneficial ingredient! No antioxidants to protect against free-radicals, no essential oils or botanical extracts. There is absolutely nothing in this product that does anything good for the skin.

There are absolutely plenty of professional lines that have gentle cleansers that actually contain skin-supporting ingredients. PCA has their Creamy Cleanser, Skin Script has Pomagranite Antioxidant Cleanser, Hale and Hush have Quiet Wash, and GlymedPlus has Gentle Facial Wash, Vitamin C Cleanser, and Peptide Cleanser. Find an esthetician near you and have them recommend their favorite gentle cleaner.

By no means am I trying to make you feel bad if you use Cetaphil. You don't know what you don't know. This post is intended to help inform consumers and allow people to make educated decisions.
I hope that you found this article helpful. If you have any questions or if you have a product that you'd like me to break down, go ahead and comment down below!

Love Ya!






Sunday, March 3, 2019

What to expect when coming in for a treatment

What to expect when getting a facial. Facials. What is a facial.


Hey lovelies!

Today I want to talk about something that's been on my mind a lot lately. I've had a lot of new guests come in for treatments, and they all had one thing in common; they were a little overwhelmed.

So, you want to come in for a treatment, but you don't know where to start. Spa menus can be a bit confusing. There are a lot of different options, and you want to make sure you choose the best one for your skin. I have fantastic news for you; it doesn't have to be so complicated! Those options are there, yes, but you don't have to feel so pressured to choose "the best one."

Estheticians don't really expect you to know exactly what you need, especially if this is your first time coming to see us. It's our job to know what each service entails and what it's good for, not yours. Your job is to come in, relax, and let us do the work! I ask all my first time clients a variation of this question: "Why did you choose _________ today?" Whether it be, microderm, dermaplaning or a "basic" custom facial, I want to know why you chose the one you did. What concerns do you have? What do you want to change about your skin? What do you love about your skin? The more I know about your "why," will help me decide on what will be best for you and your skin. Again, it's not your job to know which treatment will be the one you need, rest assured that you will leave having received exactly what your skin needs!

Now that we've alleviated some of your worries, what should you book? I recommend, if it's your very first time, or just your first time at a new spa, go with the "basic" facial. Where I work, at Grove Spa, that would be our Custom PCA Facial. Just because I'm calling this one our "basic" facial, doesn't mean it won't give you results. Oh, no! This facial has "custom" in its name for a reason! We customize each step of the facial to suit your specific skin type and needs! After your skin is cleansed of all makeup, we will take a look at it under the mag lamp, or Maggie Lamp, as one of my "esthi idols" calls it! We will look for certain characteristics in your skin. Are you dry? Oily? Combination? Could you have rosacea? All of these factors will determine how we treat your skin, and what products we will use. I don't expect you to have an answer to these questions, truly. If you have an idea, of course I want you to tell me your thoughts on your skin, but don't stress over whether you know if you have this or that... Seriously, if you're not sure, no worries! We'll figure it out together! The most important thing is that you are here! You took this massive step towards the skin of your dreams!

Once you come in and we've talked about your wants, needs and skin type, we will select the treatment products that will best deliver the results you hope for. One thing that I think is important to mention is what you should expect when it comes to the "results." I know I've been saying that word through out this post, but I want to make sure we are on the same page. When you get a facial, you WILL notice some immediate results. You'll see and feel an improvement in the over all texture of your skin. However, if you have a lot of texture from scarring, that will take time to start to see improvement, but your skin will feel softer and smoother to the touch because we are getting rid of several layers of dead skin, which can leave even the smoothest skins feeling rough and dull. Your skin will also be super hydrated after your facial! Even the most oily of skin types need hydration, especially after a deep cleansing facial, which can leave the skin slightly dehydrated.

If you've got your heart set on getting something more aggressive, like a microderm or chemical peel, my best advice would be to come in and get a facial first. We can discuss your concerns and needs and come up with a treatment plan to target those issues. I never recommend someone get a microderm or a peel for their first treatment. Those treatments are aggressive and can cause serious damage if the skin is not properly conditioned. I prefer to do at least one or two facials to get a feel for your skin and determine what the best course of action would be. It's important to note that no matter which treatment you get, it's never a "one and done" quick fix. Even peels take time. It could take up to six or more peels or microderms to start seeing the results you are hoping for. Many guests will book these treatments in the hopes that they will fix all their problems, when a Custom Facial can be just as effective, and less taxing to the skin. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE chemical peels! They are truly one of my favorite things! But, even as much as I love them, I realize that not everyone needs them. If you really want a peel or a microderm, come in and we can talk it over. This doesn't mean you can't get one, but a good esthetician will want to be sure you can handle it.

A facial consists of cleansing, exfoliating, examining, extracting (as needed), a mask, serums, moisturizer and SPF. Sometimes the order may very, there may be multiple cleanses, no extractions and in some cases even, no exfoliation. It just depends on what your skin needs. Just know that you are getting the treatment you need, even if it feels like a step may have been omitted, there was most likely a reason. I have had people complain in the past because I skipped a step, but the truth is, if it's not necessary, I'm not going to do it. If you have really dry skin and don't have anything that needs extracting, I won't do that step. Instead, I'm going to use that time to let the hydrating mask sit on your skin and give you an extra long shoulder massage or use extra serums. Please don't feel like I just didn't want to do it, or that I forgot, because I didn't. Facials are my favorite thing to do, and I want to make sure that everyone gets precisely what their skin needs.

To try to make a long story short, I know that it can sometimes be difficult to trust a stranger with your skin. This post is intended to help to alleviate some of that anxiety, and to let you know that I'm going to do everything that I can to make your experience one of a kind (and I'm sure my Esthi sisters and brothers will do the same)! There's a facial for every skin, and I'm so happy that you have decided to take this step towards having your dream skin!! There's truly no better feeling than helping someone feel beautiful!

I hope you found this post entertaining, helpful or that you learned something! Please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know what you thought! If you are in Springfield, MO or close and you want to book a facial with me, you can find me at Grove Spa! I look forward to seeing you!

Your Esthetician,